Recently we have begun to offer a new irrigation clock; Rainbird ESP-SMT Controllers.  These controllers are new to the marketplace although the technology has been around for years in the commercial landscape industry.  This controller offers a new approach to how we manage the irrigation of our landscapes.   More importantly it will reduce the overall amount of water used and reduce your water bill.

In the past, we (Landscape Professional, Homeowners, Etc) determined how much to water and when.  Now with a smart controller we simply determine the conditions for each zone.  We give the controller critical information about the site ranging from; light condition, plant type, soil type, amount of slope, etc and the clock determines the needed amount of water.

The way in which water need is calculated begins with the outdoor weather station.  This weather station measures rain fall and temperature and compares this current information with 7 years of programmed historical data based upon zip code.  This allows the controller to increase, decrease or terminate water output completely.  This is the first controller that allows the homeowner to walk away and allow the controller to make the daily and seasonal decisions or adjustments.

We, as programmers, determine when the system can water; this is called the water window.  The controller determines based upon collected weather information and programmed site condition how much water should be allowed and how frequently.  If you have a slope, instead of watering for 7 minutes at one time this controller knows (pre-programmed) the ideal rate of percolation.  It would water for the same amount of time (7 minutes), but it would do so in smaller increments over the time allowed (water window).  This means less runoff, less wasted water, and more savings.

Rainbird ESP-SMT controllers are estimated to save between 30-70% of water usage for a typical landscape.  This is a tremendous amount of water and a large step to being more environmentally conscious when managing ones property.

Brian

At Lifestyle Landscapes, we always work within the boundary limits of our clients’ property. There are spaces adjacent to, or included in a clients’ property which they may be responsible for maintaining, but limit the use of the property.  These areas are called Right-of-Ways, Easements and Setbacks.

Setbacks are typically determined by municipalities and are used to contain development within the property lines.  Typically, structures over 18″ height are not allowed in the setbacks.

Similar to setbacks are buffers where local codes allow only specific types of plant material.

Easements are typically established to provide for installation of, and access to, utilities such as sewer, electrical, water, or gas.  Easements may be established to allow access for owners of adjacent property.

A Right-of-Way is also like an easement, but, normally, utilities are not installed under a Right-of-Way.  The Right-of-Way and Utility Easement is typically owned by the municipality or utility district but the homeowner is responsible for its maintenance.  When working in a Right-of-Way, it is important to be aware of municipal codes specifying allowable construction in these areas and defining the conditions under which permits are required before construction projects may be undertaken in these areas.  Plantings in Right-of-Ways might consist of low maintenance shrubs or trees.  However, in utility easements, vegetation may be limited to shrubs and ground-covers.

Michal

I recently read an article in the September 2009 Landscape Architecture Magazine ‘Haag’s Edible Estate’.  For those of you who don’t know, Rich Haag founded the Landscape Architecture program at the University of Washington and has designed some very notable places including Gasworks Park here in Seattle and the Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island.  This article looks at the landscape of his private residence in Capitol Hill, which is an active experiment and example of what he has coined ‘nutrimental horticulture’.  The term is a mouthful but the ideas behind it caught my attention immediately.

Balancing the utility of a food producing garden with a landscape that is also beautiful and welcoming is something that drives many of my designs, including my own gardens.  Gardens are about discovery and activating our many senses.  Showy flowers and an intoxicating smell are great but think of discovering your first ripe strawberry; this evokes a special reaction.  Why can’t all landscapes have this multi-sensorial experience? They can.

One plant that is very easy to utilize in a landscape are blueberries. They are tolerant of a wide range of soil and light conditions (err on the side of shady and moist) and beyond the berries, the leaves have great fall color, changing to a bright red as the plant goes dormant.

If you are looking to create an informal screen, try red raspberries.  They grow into 5-6′ canes which spread through rhizomes over time.  Raspberries can be perfect for obscuring a utility shed or a tall cedar fence.  Many varieties of raspberry will produce fruit multiple times throughout the summer.

Does your garden need a bulletproof ground cover?   Similar to the aforementioned strawberry plant (which is a must) creeping bramble (Rubus pentalobus) sprawls low to the ground and produces bright orange, raspberry-like fruit.

A great way to bring structure to the garden is a trellis.  Trellises allow plants, especially vines, to grow vertically and often with a dramatic result.  They can support garden variety vegetables like climbing beans and peas that can be grown throughout the year.  As an alternative try grape vines or better yet, hops.  This summer I grew hops (Cascade variety) for the first time. They quickly grew to about ten feet tall with pendulous clusters of yellow green hops, a surprisingly good turnout for the first year.  Hop plants grow from rhizomes that mature and increase in size over time producing more and more hops.

Lastly, an edible plant that makes both an architectural statement and is very sought after for its culinary uses, the artichoke.  This plant may not be for everyone but it is dramatic as a focal plant. Mature plants can grow to be 6-7′ feet tall with bold serrated fronds and large thistle flowers (the artichoke).  Tall and conspicuous, I see it as the Palm Tree of the garden.  Unlike the Palm, however, the artichoke is perennial and will die back in the fall to emerge in spring.

I will readily admit that I have had mixed results with some of these plants (especially the artichoke). To me the experiment is a part of the experience.  Try new things alongside successes of the past.  It is a great way to discover what works in your garden landscape.

Zach

At Lifestyle Landscapes we often use ornamental grasses in our designs.  They are dynamic, bringing movement as well as color and texture to a garden, and, even those that die back in the winter add drama all year long.  Grasses generally grow fast, require little maintenance and, once established, do not need a lot of water.  Often we are asked how to maintain grasses.  Since this week fall has definitely arrived, I though it an apt time to discuss ornamental grass maintenance.

What we term ornamental grasses, those plants with long leaves, are actually several categories of plants; sedges, true grasses, and reeds or rushes.

“Sedges have Edges…” The stems of sedges are often triangular and have edges or corners.  The stems are generally solid and their seed heads are not particularly showy.  The Carexs are sedges, and, true to type, do not need trimming.  In the spring and/or fall, simply don gloves and comb through the clumps, extracting the dead leaves.

“and Rushes are round..”: Rushes belong to the family Juncaceae, their stems are typically cylindrical like true grasses, but solid, and they lack nodes.  Not too much to do to rushes except cut out the dead stalks.

“Grasses are hollow and rush all around.” True grasses are from the family Poaceae and have narrow leaves.  They have long veins running parallel to the edge of the leaves.  Their stems are hollow except at the nodes or joints.  They may form clumps or spread by runners.  These can be cut in the fall, or leave the seed heads standing till the end of winter.  Again, don gloves as for the edges may be sharp.  I always wait for a sunny day in February, and then look for the new green shoots, deep in the clumps, as the first harbingers of spring.

Baxter