It’s winter in Seattle and so where can one go for warmth and great art…how about St Petersburg….Florida. Yes that one. The new Dali Museum is opening there this month in an amazing building by HOK Architects of London and set in a landscape designed by Graham-Booth Landscape Architecture to remind visitors of Dali’s summer residence in Cadaquez in Spain.

The grounds are full of colorful flowering shrubs, palms and trees that represent the coastal character of Spain, and over one thousand tons of Florida limestone boulders, (some as big as cars) are placed throughout the site to suggest the landscape of Dali’s Catalonian home. The rocks in his landscape paintings are referencing this same landscape.

At the entry a 20-ft. tall man-made boulder supports one corner of the massive cube and a living wall has plants in pockets and flowing water that weeps out of crags and crannies. A misting system gives the whole area a mysterious and cooling effect before visitors enter the museum.

Large boulders were split in half to define the steps, a spiral labyrinth invites exploration, a bench morphs into a pocket watch, entry gates disappear into boulders, this is a site as much fun to explore as one of Dali’s paintings. On the roof solar water heaters heat water for the bathrooms, LED lighting lowers energy use and passive solar addresses cooling. As it is built in Florida the walls are 18” thick and the glass specially designed to resist hurricane force wind speeds, and all the art is on the third floor, keeping it above any incursion by storm surge. Now doesn’t that take your mind off Winter?

Vermiculture or vermicomposting is the practice of using worms to aid in the breakdown and disposal of waste into viable, useful material.  The end product of vermicompost is vermicast; worm casting or manure created from the digestion of materials.  This process takes material that is not readily useful to either soil or plants and turns it into a nutrient rich and water soluble plant fertilizer.

Residential worm bins can be made out of several materials.  The least common is metal; these transfer heat too readily and can be prone to rust.  Wooden bins are okay but over time the wood will rot.  Even resilient wood like cedar has its drawbacks; the resinous oils that prevent decay can actually harm worms.  Bins made of used or recycled plastic tubs are durable, easy to work and are fairly inexpensive.

After some research and many alternate designs, I decided on a fairly simple worm bin system for my garden.  It employs two plastic bins with lids, one must be able to completely fit within the other with room for a few bricks at the bottom of the larger bin.  The inner (smaller) tub houses the worms and the bedding (a mix of shredded newspaper and soil).  Before adding these I drilled small (1/8”) drain holes in the bottom of the bin and drilled larger (1/4”) vent holes in the lid.  In the larger bin, I placed four bricks at the bottom and sat the smaller bin onto them.  The main purposes of the larger bin is to protect the inner bin from excess moisture (rain), extreme temperatures, and to catch the liquid run off from the inner bin (often called ‘worm tea’).

The inner bin is the engine of the system.  Kitchen (vegetable) scraps are buried into the bedding and both lids are closed.  The amount of waste that your bin can handle ranges with temperature, food type (worms prefer different foods) and the species of worm one chooses.  A widely used species of worm is Eisenia foetida, or Red Wiggler (I found my worms on Craigslist but a Google search will point you in the direction of many local sellers).  These worms are voracious eaters and can handle the compact and hot nature of a worm bin. In contrast, our common earthworms need a cooler environment with the ability to migrate freely through a wide territory.  Using the right worms in a balanced worm bin has many benefits.  I have found that my bin is much less hassle than a compost pile (or bin), the breakdown is much faster and it creates a more concentrated useful fertilizing product.  Also it is very convenient; I keep mine in the basement with no noticeable odor. This indoor placement provides both temperature and moisture control.  Worms are most active with temperatures ranging from 55 and 75 degrees.  The soil should be moist like a rung-out wash cloth; if too much moisture the bin can take on an acrid smell.  Outdoor bins must be protected and can be susceptible to freezing, overheating; and flooding.  I have placed my bin outside and exposed my worms to all of these conditions, and the worms don’t fare well.

My worm bin has been going for nearly a year, in fact, I have split the one into two, but before this weekend I had never used the castings.  I have read of multiple methods of separating the worms from the casting and these fell into two basic categories- one being hunger driven and the other being light driven.  The basis behind the hunger driven is to stop feeding the bin and place a bin with food material on top to coerce the worms to migrate into the new space.  I chose the light driven method of putting the contents into piles on a tarp outside, the worms move down in aversion to the light, the top material is skimmed off and the worms are gently returned to their bin.  Although a little messy, this method of separation was quick and easy,.  Soon I was mixing the castings into a raised bed in preparation for the growing season.  Also, I diluted the worm tea collected in the outer bin and hit all of my edibles with a shot of home-made organic fertilizer.  If everything I have read is true, I can look forward to vigorous plants and a great harvest!

Although we often complain in Seattle about the amount of rain we get, water shortages are something we can, and do, experience. Our last drought was as recent as 2003. In response, citizens of the Puget Sound water shed have reduced our per capita water usage from 152 gallons per day (gpd) to 97 gpd from 1990 to 2007. Most of our precipitation occurs in winter, and highest usage is in summer. We are reliant on snow-pack in the mountains to act as our water storage system for summer use. Global warning is expected to cause more of our precipitation to fall as rain, rather than snow, and run immediately down to the lakes and Puget Sound. We need to continue to conserve water. To this end the City of Seattle has a water goal: To sustain water quality and quantity in support of human activity and the ecosystem by using our water sources efficiently and with care.

Rain barrels, rain gardens, drought tolerant plants, pervious surfaces, snow pack retention, salmon recovery, these are all terms we often hear in Seattle. More people are moving into our environment and development continues. One result of this “progress” is reduced infiltration rates — more water is being diverted into drains and piped away, and less water is absorbed into the ground to replenish groundwater supplies. Increasing infiltration rates would provide several advantages: providing bio filtration, slowing runoff and hence diminishing erosion, and lessening the need to upgrade storm sewer systems and water treatment plants. Here are some steps we can all take:

Slowing the flow of rainwater:

• Install a green roof. This may be too big for some to undertake but, installing a green roof on a storage shed could be a good start. The purpose of the green roof is to absorb the rainfall and slow its movement, lessening its speed and lessening its erosion of hillsides or streams.

• Install a rain garden. A rain garden gives the water from the gutters and downspouts a place to be detained. It slows down the flow and the water infiltrates into the ground rather than rushing down the street and into the storm drains.

Collect water for use later:

• Install rain barrels, cisterns, or underground catchments. All of these deliver the benefits of a rain garden or green roof and also allow the water to be used in the landscape at a later time.

Use gray water:

• Install an underground catchment and pump. This is water from (for instance your washing machine) which is filtered and then held in the catchment for later use. This water could be used to water your plants.

Choose the right plant for the right place:

• Proper plant selection will save water. It can be valuable to have a professional design your landscape in order to save in the long run. The selections will include plants that thrive in the PNW, the right plants for the conditions at the site where it will be planted, and plants that are more resistant to pests.

Drink tap water not bottled water:

• Seattle residents use the equivalent of about 354,127 pint bottles of water each day. Production of this volume of bottled water requires use of some 40,719 barrels of oil each year, creating about 5,439 tons of greenhouse gases.

• Nationally, nine out of every 10 plastic water bottles end up in landfills — not in recycling bins. In Seattle, the recycling rate is closer to 49 percent, but those bottles still require huge amounts of energy to produce and transport.

As we move into fall we start to think about closing down our gardens for the winter, but now is the time to start planning and preparing for the next growing season. If you wish to add color to your garden, planting perennials in the fall allows the roots of those plants to develop and will result in a stronger plant. The soil is still warm from summer so there is little if any shock to the plant. Fall and winter rains assure that you don’t have to worry about the plant getting adequate water.

Many bulbs should be planted in the fall. They can be planted with the perennials to avoid perennial root disturbance. They will intermingle without a problem. You might also consider planting some annual seeds in the fall. Some varieties, such as larkspur and poppies, benefit from fall planting. You will be happy you did this when spring comes.

Nurseries are interested in getting rid of their stock before winter comes. You will likely be able now to find some good prices on many plants. It is true that the selection is not as plentiful as in the spring, but the likelihood of survival is greater.

Fall is also the perfect time for aerating your lawn, thatching, fertilizing, and over seeding. If all of that is too much to tackle, at least fertilize your lawn areas. Fall lawn fertilizing is important. It feeds the roots, allowing the grass to winter more successfully and start out on a healthy path in the spring.

As always, it is important to weed and mulch. Keep up with this now and there will be less work to do next spring, and your garden will look good all winter!

In the “before” photos below you will see a typical “Forgotten” back yard with weeds, awkwardly planted trees, a poorly sited utility shed, and grading issues. It all adds up to a space where the entertaining area is not attractive and uncomfortable to use.

A  modest amount of professional landscaping support who made just a few changes has opened up the yard and created various “use rooms”.  The “after” photo below demonstrates the effects of installing a simple gravel seating area, surrounded by planting beds.  The result is the creation of a tranquil reading and contemplation space while correcting the grading problems.  In this transformation process, the storage shed was moved to the underutilized side yard, leaving the relatively flat portion of the yard for a play lawn to be enjoyed by the household’s children. The transformed yard can now provide many activity choices for entertaining friends and family.

Do I Really Want All This Lawn?  Is Synthetic Turf a Viable Green Alternative?

Yes it’s true, by installing synthetic turf instead of lawn you are decreasing you carbon footprint. Less water will be used and therefore water will be conserved and your water bill will be lowered.

• Reduced use of fertilizer, herbicides and pesticides will result in fewer pollutants reaching our waterways.
• Reduced energy use will lower carbon emissions.  For example, it takes a tremendous amount of energy to produce fertilizer.
  And just one hour of mowing your lawn produces the same amount of emissions as driving a car 93 miles.
• But should we just replace our lawn with synthetic turf?  No. Synthetic turf is only one way to replace lawn.  The first step is to look at your property as a whole and ask yourself some questions:

*  What on my property works and what doesn’t?
* How do I want to use my space?
* Where do I want to entertain, how much space is needed?
* Where do the kids play and how much area do they need?
* Pet needs?
* Storage areas?
* Gardening beds?

Once you consider these questions you might discover that you want to make some changes.  Of course Lifestyle Landscapes, Inc. would be happy to help!

One of the first changes that many people could make is to remove lawn from the narrow side yards between your house and your neighbor.  These are generally just circulation paths from front to back or storage for the garbage/recycle bin.  The easiest way to handle these areas may be a gravel path.  It is a simple beginning that might lead to further changes and less lawn.

Lawn has an icon of the American Landscape since the mid-19^th century.  It is time to re-think that tradition.

Arlene

Last month, at the Bellevue Home Show, Lifestyle Landscapes made two presentations describing Rain Gardens and Developing a Sustainable Landscape.  The attendees at the Rain Garden Seminar have requested we post information about selecting a garden site.  We discussed a number of criteria pertaining to the sizing of a Rain Garden.  The following slides include this information.  If, after reviewing this information, you have unanswered questions, give us a call and we will be happy to provide answers – 206 621-2626.

Size of Rain Garden

Percolation Test

Dig a hole at least 2’ deep and 1-2 feet in diameter. •
Put a ruler in the hole and fill the hole with 8-12 inches of water. In Summer, fill and let drain three times. On the third time record the depth every hour. When the rate of change stabilizes i.e. is the same for three hours, that’s the infiltration rate in inches/hour.

Baxter

Recently we have begun to offer a new irrigation clock; Rainbird ESP-SMT Controllers.  These controllers are new to the marketplace although the technology has been around for years in the commercial landscape industry.  This controller offers a new approach to how we manage the irrigation of our landscapes.   More importantly it will reduce the overall amount of water used and reduce your water bill.

In the past, we (Landscape Professional, Homeowners, Etc) determined how much to water and when.  Now with a smart controller we simply determine the conditions for each zone.  We give the controller critical information about the site ranging from; light condition, plant type, soil type, amount of slope, etc and the clock determines the needed amount of water.

The way in which water need is calculated begins with the outdoor weather station.  This weather station measures rain fall and temperature and compares this current information with 7 years of programmed historical data based upon zip code.  This allows the controller to increase, decrease or terminate water output completely.  This is the first controller that allows the homeowner to walk away and allow the controller to make the daily and seasonal decisions or adjustments.

We, as programmers, determine when the system can water; this is called the water window.  The controller determines based upon collected weather information and programmed site condition how much water should be allowed and how frequently.  If you have a slope, instead of watering for 7 minutes at one time this controller knows (pre-programmed) the ideal rate of percolation.  It would water for the same amount of time (7 minutes), but it would do so in smaller increments over the time allowed (water window).  This means less runoff, less wasted water, and more savings.

Rainbird ESP-SMT controllers are estimated to save between 30-70% of water usage for a typical landscape.  This is a tremendous amount of water and a large step to being more environmentally conscious when managing ones property.

Brian

Since inception Lifestyle Landscapes has placed a premium on ensuring our practices are ‘best practices’ in regard to their environmental consequences.  We thus found a natural fit when several years ago we became an EnviroStars rated company. (Details of Lifestyle Landscapes Green Offerings)

EnviroStars is a program that certifies businesses for their efforts in preventing pollution and reducing hazardous waste. Certified EnviroStars businesses are given a rating based on their commitment to reducing hazardous waste. The higher the star rating, the more proactive the business has been in protecting the environment.  The program was set up in King County in 1995 and has spread through the region and become nationally recognized.

We are constantly extending our outreach efforts to both spread news of the EnviroStars Program and to directly help our clients lessen their own impact on the environment.  So today’s Blog entry is to suggest when looking for a business or service try the EnviroStars search page.

By using these businesses, you are helping to reinforce better business practices, and creating economic value for businesses that make the commitment to “go green“.  We are all trying to do our part for the environment and for our community.

Here are some ecologically sensitive landscaping practices that I have learned about recently for Seattle landscaping.

Consider the sun’s path through the sky and how the sun heats not only your home in the summer and winter but also heats up paths which reflect that heat onto sensitive plants. Planting shade trees in strategic spots can provide shade and screening. Remove narrow concrete paths and replace with dark bark mulch. The mulch doesn’t reflect light and doesn’t have much nutrient value for weeds.

Planting density can affect weed growth when gardening. If shrubs, perennials and groundcovers grow into a dense mass there is less light and area for wind-blown weed seeds to take hold.

Drip irrigation placed at the base, root balls and trunks can help get larger shrub groupings the water they need with less water loss due to wind and evaporation. When designing irrigation systems; the placing of drip emitters or soaker hoses, locate them at the interior of planting beds where dense root masses can absorb the water, they are shaded by vegetation and protected from wind.

A yearly application of compost and mulch, or compost/mulch combinations can hugely help improve soil quality. Over time rocks and pebbles are pushed to the surface and the nutrient rich layer of topsoil gets deeper and deeper. A thicker topsoil layer encourages plant roots to reach deeper, thus holding moisture longer and eventually needing less irrigation.

Compost and mulch can also be applied to lawns. The deeper the grass roots extend the longer the grass will remain green in the summer and the healthier the lawn will be; preventing weeds from taking hold.

There are many methods for on site management of rain water. Options to disconnect down spouts from the city storm water system include cisterns, rain gardens, gravel and drain rock swales, and impervious paver systems. Be sure that big storms can still flow to the storm drains without flooding sidewalks or onto neighbor’s property. More information can be found at www.seattle.gov/util/rainwise.