Avoid over fertilizing: Aphids prefer tender new growth that appears in profusion with over fertilized plants.  Use slow release fertilizer.

Monitor: Check your plants once a week.  If you see ants climbing up a plant they are most likely harvesting the aphids’ honeydew.  Putting sticky tape around the trunk of plants can stop ants.

Spray with water:  Spraying aphids with water can dislodge them from the infested plant and knock them off where they will be less likely to re-infest.

Natural predators:  There are natural predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies, and various parasitic wasps.  Lady beetles are often available commercially, however they tend to disperse in a few days.

Insecticidal soap:  A mixture of two tablespoons of mild dish soap with luke warm water in a spray bottle is effective in cleaning aphids from plants.  The soap dissolves the aphids waxy protective coating and causes them to dehydrate.  Also mixing three tablespoons of vegetable or horticultural oil with luke warn water and a few drops of dish soap can be effective to clog the aphids breathing spiracles.  Spray once a week and alternate between methods.

These methods only take care of mature aphids, not those in eggs.  Repeated applications should eventually rid your plants of the little pests.

Michal

Thatch:  Thatching removes the layer of dead grass that prevents the water and nutrients from getting to the roots of the lawn.  Rent a thatcher for this task, or just use a stiff rake and remove the buildup.

Aerate:  Aeration allows nutrients, water, and oxygen to get to the roots of the lawn.  You can rent an aeration machine to make this project quick and simple.  During this process, plugs of soil are pushed up and deposited on top of the lawn.  These plugs need to be raked up after aerating.

Over-seed:  Go to the local garden center or home store and buy lawn seed.  2-3 pounds per 1000 square feet of lawn should be enough to over-seed most lawns.  Your local garden center will also stock for the type of lawn seed that grows in your area.

Top-dress:  If your lawn is growing in poor soil, top-dressing is the best way to improve your lawn and soil at the same time.  Choose your top-dressing product based on the existing conditions.  Choose peat moss or compost if you don’t have drainage issues.  Choose sand if you do have drainage problems.  Top-dress with ½ inch of selected material every year will improve lawn health and soil conditions.

Fertilize:  Your local home and garden center is a good source for advice on appropriate fertilizer for your lawn.  They will have a variety of winterizing fertilizers to choose from.

When these tasks are complete, and the fall rains come, you can feel sure that your lawn will build healthy roots during the winter for a healthy lawn next spring.

Arlene

Seattle gardening and landscape maintenance begins with proper watering. When trying to determine the frequency and duration of watering periods, always consider the soil conditions, the weather conditions and the plant itself. Healthy plant roots need oxygen as well as water. In clay soils, water can drain very slowly and deprive the plant of the oxygen its roots need. During the summer, the heat and lack of rain can dry out your plants. Windy conditions can also dry out plants, thereby requiring more water than expected. New plants require substantially more water than established plants.

It is best to think of watering in two ways. You can either sprinkle or flood (soak). Different plants like different watering techniques. The best time to water is early morning. This helps to prevent disease by allowing plants to dry completely before the cooler evening temperatures arrive.

Established lawns (2 years old or older) need 1” of water per week. This is normally accomplished in our region naturally from November 15^th through March 15^th. Lawn roots are relatively shallow but you want to promote deep rooting. Lawns also dry out quickly, so it is best for an established lawn to be sprinkled 3 times a week. Set your irrigation clocks to make sure your lawn is receiving 1” of water per week.

Established trees (2 years after installation) require water monitoring. When established trees need water they prefer a complete soaking. If the soil is not damp at a 6” depth, your tree needs watering. Water until the soil is wet to that 6” depth. During hot weather, soaking the root ball once every week is usually sufficient.

Established shrub beds need .5” of water per week. This is normally accomplished in our region naturally from November 15^th through March 15^th. Maintaining a 2” layer of mulch helps to keep the water from evaporating too quickly and thereby reduces water usage. Sprinkling is generally fine for most plants. Set your clocks to make sure your beds are receiving .5” of water per week.