Lifestyle Landscapes is proud to present you with this reference guide designed to help you maintain your landscape as it matures and becomes even more beautiful. We hope you will find this information useful. We strive to make your new outdoor environment an increasingly valuable intangible and tangible asset to your lifestyle.
Maintenance requirements are provided for various stages of your landscape’s maturity including: caring for your landscape in the first four weeks, general care of your lawn and plants and care of non-living elements of your new landscape.
Plants
Plant root balls must remain wet during the first 48 hours. Automatic irrigation systems do not provide trees, plants, shrubs, or ground cover with a sufficient supply of water during this critical time. Hand watering or manual operation of automatic irrigation systems are the only effective ways to assure these living organisms survive the shock of transplantation. If your landscape is installed during dormancy (about October 15th to March 15th) hand watering is generally not needed.
Sod
New sod should be thoroughly watered twice each day. Water must be applied long enough to saturate the soil layer under the sod. A corner of a sod section may be lifted to check the extent of water penetration. If your landscape is installed during dormancy (about October 15th to March 15th) hand watering is generally not needed.
Lawn Seed or Hydroseed
The soil must remain damp at all times, but not too wet. Grass seed will not survive if it is allowed to dry and over-watering will cause soil erosion and seed drowning.
Automatic irrigation systems should be set to water for a short amount of time several times a day. The frequency and duration of these watering sessions is dependent on the soil type and slope of the seeded area. Lifestyle Landscapes recommends the irrigation system be set to water two times a day for five minutes. If the water is absorbed into the soil, the duration of the watering period should be increased by 2 minutes each period. If the water puddles or produces run-off at the end of each watering period, the duration of the watering session should be decreased by 2 minutes each period. If the weather is hot and dry, more frequent watering is advised.
If the lawn area is not automatically irrigated you should manually water to duplicate the automatic system’s watering guidelines as described above.
Do not walk or drive equipment on lawn areas until the lawn.
Plants
Trees and shrubs are delivered with a root ball. It takes several weeks for the roots of these plants to grow beyond this ball. Until that time, it is important that the root ball remain cool and moist. Frequent watering is critical during the first weeks following planting. The most effective way to be sure plants have sufficient water is to water often by hand with a hose or watering can. Make sure to check often for proper moisture by placing a finger in the soil around the plants. The soil must be cool and damp for at least the depth of an adult index finger. Water volume and frequency can be adjusted to keep the soil from becoming too wet or too dry.
The amount of water required by a specific plant depends on the size of the root ball. Small shrubs or groundcover will require much less water than a 7’ tree.
Plants will quickly display the effects of over or under watering. When plants are under-watered, the leaves will first lose their moisture content and become translucent or chalky in appearance. If the drought is extended, the leaves will become brown and crumble.
When plants are over-watered, the plants will first appear limp and lifeless. Extended over-watering will cause the plants to become yellow and rubbery in texture. Eventually the leaves will drop from the plant.
Over- and under-watered plants with needles are more difficult to diagnose. Careful observation will demonstrate similar behavior to over- or under-watered plants with leaves.
Sod
Continue watering new sod for the first three weeks in the same manner used for the first two days. New sod also requires a light application of organic fertilizer (16-16-16) during the first month.
Do Not walk or drive equipment on new sod for at least 21-30 days following planting.
Sod should be mowed approximately 3 -4 weeks after installation, or when the sod grows to 3.5” tall. Mower blades must be very sharp and the mower cutting height should be set to 2.5”. For the first mow, run your lawn mower perpendicular to the direction of the sod. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade height during any one mowing.
Lawn Seed or Hydroseed
Newly seeded lawns must remain moist at all times until the seed is fully germinated. After the first 48 hours, these lawns should be watered 2 – 3 times daily during the first 21 days after planting. Moisture levels should be checked regularly to assure proper ground moisture content. Watering times will vary as temperatures change.
New seed requires a light application of organic fertilizer (16-16-16) during the first month.
Do not walk or drive equipment on lawn areas until the lawn is well established or nearly ready for its first mowing.
Newly seeded lawns should be mowed approximately 4 – 6 weeks after seeding, or when the grass blades grow to 3.5” tall. Mower blades must be very sharp and the mower cutting height should be set to 2.5”. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade height during any one mowing.
Sod, Lawn Seed, or Hydroseed
After the first 21 days, watering should be reduced to once or twice daily for the next 21 days. Moisture levels should be checked daily to assure watering frequency is correct.
New lawns require a second light application of organic fertilizer (16-16-16) 4-6 weeks following the first application of fertilizer.
Walking or operating equipment on sod should be minimized until the soil becomes firm. Depending on soil and weather conditions, this may take between 2 and 12 months.
Yard Waste
We encourage you to compost any leaves, branches, plant material, or soil that you need to dispose of should be composted rather than sent to a municipal landfill. Most municipalities in our are offer curbside yard waste pickup, making this a simple and easy way for you to care for the environment. If you don’t have curbside pickup, give us a call. We would love to help you figure out the best composting option for your location and lifestyle.
Plant and Lawn Care
Plantings are spaced to allow plants to grow properly and attractively year-by-year to fill these spaces. The ContinuousCare® guidelines provided in this section are designed to assure proper care of your plantings during the first years as they establish themselves in your environment.
Tree Inspection
Tree inspection is an evalution tool to call attention to any change in the tree’s health before the problem becomes too serious. By providing regular inspections of mature trees at least once a year, you can prevent or reduce the severity of future disease, insect, and environmental problems. During tree inspection, be sure to examine four characteristics of tree vigor: new leaves or buds, leaf size, twig growth, and absence of crown dieback (gradual death of the upper part of the tree).
A reduction in the extension of shoots (new growing parts), such as buds or new leaves, is a fairly reliable cue that the tree’s health has recently changed.To evaluate this factor, compare the growth of the shoots over the past three years.Determine whether there is a reduction in the tree’s typical growth pattern.
Further signs of poor tree health are trunk decay, crown dieback, or both.These symptioms often indicate problems that began several years before.Loose bark or deformed growths, such as trunk conks (mushrooms), are common signs of stem decay.
Any abnormalities found during these inspections, including insect activity and spotted, deformed, discolored, or dead leaves and twigs, should be noted and watched closely.If you are uncertain as to what should be done, please contact Lifestyle Landscapes and we can refer you to an arborist.
Tree Removal
Although tree removal is a last resort, there are circumstances when it is necessary. An arborist can help decide whether or not a tree should be removed. Professionally trained arborists have the skills and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees. Removal is recommended when a tree
- Is dead, dying, or considered irreparably hazardous
- Is causing an obstruction or is crowding and causing harm to other trees and the situation is impossible to correct through pruning
- Is to be replaced by a more suitable specimen
- Should be removed to allow for construction
With proper maintenance, trees are attractive and can add considerable value to your property.Poorly maintained trees, on the other hand, can be a significant liability.Pruning or removing trees, especially large trees, can be dangerous work.Lifestyle Landscapes can refer you to an arborist to perform this task.
Watering
When trying to determine the frequency and duration of watering periods, always consider the soil conditions, the weather conditions and the plant itself. Healthy plant roots need oxygen as well as water. In clay soils, water can drain very slowly and deprive the plant of the oxygen its roots need. During the summer, the heat and lack of rain can dry out your plants. Windy conditions can also dry out plants, thereby requiring more water than expected. New plants require substantially more water than established plants.
It is best to think of watering in two ways. You can either sprinkle or flood (soak). Different plants like different watering techniques. The best time to water is early morning. This helps to prevent disease by allowing plants to dry completely before the cooler evening temperatures arrive.
Established lawns (2 years old or older) need 1” of water per week. This is normally accomplished in our region naturally from November 15th through March 15th. Lawn roots are relatively shallow but you want to promote deep rooting. Lawns also dry out quickly, so it is best for an established lawn to be sprinkled 3 times a week. Set your irrigation clocks to make sure your lawn is receiving 1” of water per week.
Established trees (2 years after installation) require water monitoring. When established trees need water they prefer a complete soaking. If the soil is not damp at a 6” depth, your tree needs watering. Water until the soil is wet to that 6” depth. During hot weather, soaking the root ball once every week is usually sufficient.
Established shrub beds need .5” of water per week. This is normally accomplished in our region naturally from November 15th through March 15th. Maintaining a 2” layer of mulch helps to keep the water from evaporating too quickly and thereby reduces water usage. Sprinkling is generally fine for most plants. Set your clocks to make sure your beds are receiving .5” of water per week.
Fertilizing
The major nutrients in plant fertilizers are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These are listed on the fertilizer package N-P-K in that order. N in general is used for the greening of the plant. P is for flower display. K is for the rooting system. So 20-10-10 would have 20% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 10% potassium. The rest of the weight of the bag includes a few other nutrients, micronutrients and the riding agent. Plants need these nutrients in order to grow and maintain health.
Established lawns need fertilizer a minimum of three times per year, spring, summer and fall. Spread at the rate according to the instructions on the bag. A good all-purpose lawn fertilizer will have a 16-16-16 ratio.
Established trees need fertilizer only once a year. The best time to fertilize is in the spring after all danger of frost is past. A good fertilizer ratio for trees would be 16-4-8. A convenient choice are the fertilizer sticks. These are hammered into the ground and get nutrients directly into the roots. Always apply as the label directs.
Established shrubs need fertilizer only once a year. The best time to fertilize is in the spring after all danger of frost is past. However, plentiful spring flowering shrubs such as rhododendrens and azaleas should be fertilized only after flowering. Use a special acid-loving plant food for those particular plants. With all other shrubs you can use a 16-4-8 ratio. Apply as the label directs.
Annuals and perennials need more frequent fertilization. For these types of plants, a liquid fertilizer can be the easiest to use. Miracle Grow or any 20-20-20 fertilizer would be good. Apply fertilizer every 10 – 14 days during the growing season for an excellent response.
Pruning
Pruning usually takes place during winter dormancy. However, do not prune spring flowering plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias during the winter. Doing so would cut off the maturing buds and they will not flower that year. These should be pruned, if necessary, after flowering.
While correct pruning will enhance the health and beauty of your plants, improper pruning may promote awkward growth or lead to eventual death of the plant. Learn more about proper pruning techniques at plantamnesty.org or get help from a certified arborist.
Tree Stakes and Wiring
Tree stakes are to be used for one growing season only. After the first growing season, the plant will have had time to root into place and needs to stand on its own . If stakes and wires remain in place, the wires will girdle the tree and prevent it from growing strong enough to stand on its own. While they are in place, stakes should be checked monthly to ensure they are taut.
Pests
The best known way to control pests inyour garden is called Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which involves understanding your garden as a natural system. The goal is to achieve a healthy, balanced landscape system through prevention, proper diagnosis, and treatment.
The steps in IPM include:
- Prevention through proper plant selection, proper watering/drainage, and maintaining healthy soil. Remember, insects and diseases attack plants that are weak or stressed by existing conditions.
- Mechanical controls (salt on slugs, strong water spray on aphids)
- Accept minor damage (this is a living system and none of us are perfect)
- Use non-chemical solutions (insecticidal soap, release ladybugs)
- Use chemical control only when needed and always follow the directions on the label
Identifying Pests
Correctly identifying pests is a necessary first step to finding a successful remedy, but it takes substantial knowledge and experience. When you suspect a disease the first thing to do gather information, beginning with the site conditions.
- Is the plant in sun or shade?
- Is there water pooling or is there good drainage?
- Are there similar plants nearby that seem healthy?
- Is it being impacted by pets, kids, cars, etc.?
- When was the last time you added fertilizer or any amendments to the soil?
Then look carefully at the plant itself. What do you see? Are there black spots, yellowing, webs, eggs, tiny insects? Be sure to look on the back-side of the leaves. This is often the place where eggs are laid or webs are created. Insects can be too small to notice.
Try taking a white sheet of paper out to your plant, hold the paper under some foliage as you shake the plant. Sometimes you will then see an amazing number of insects.
Now that you have collected as much information as possible it is best to ask an expert. Call the Garden Hotline at (206) 621‑2626 or take a cutting of your plant to a Master Gardener plant clinic.
Weeding
A weed-free garden is much more beautiful than one filled with weeds, but aesthetics are not the only concern. Weeds compete with your desirable plants for nutrients, water, light, and space. As with other pests, prevention is the best control.
Fall and spring are the times to control weeds. We recommend that you pull all weeds and add mulch to your beds during fall clean-up. The mulch not only protects the plants for the coming winter, it also helps to keep weeds at a minimum. In the spring, pull weeds as soon as they appear.
Hand weeding
Most annual and biennial weed plants can be easily managed by hand weeding. For these types of weeds, hand weeding can be an ideal method of management since the soil is not disturbed, new weed seeds are not brought to the surface, and the seeds will not be encouraged to germinate. Infrequent hand weeding is seldom effective on spreading or perennial weeds, however, since it is very difficult to remove all parts of the plants.
Hoeing
Hoeing is intended to cut weeds off at or just below the soil line with minimal soil disturbance. Hoeing can give good management of annual broadleaf weeds and biennial plants in their first growing season. Grasses may be more difficult to manage by hoeing, as the growing point is frequently below the soil line and may not be affected by the shallow cuts used in proper hoeing. As with hand weeding, hoeing may not be effective on spreading or perennial weeds unless it is performed frequently enough to starve the roots.
Mulching
Mulching relies on preventing weed growth rather than directly attacking the growing weeds. Mulches work by preventing sunlight from reaching the plants underneath the mulching material. Without sunlight, the plants cannot grow, and seeds (of some species) are not encouraged to germinate. In addition to weed management, mulches can aid in conserving water and preventing erosion. Several mulching options exist for the home landscape, where they can be very effective in gardens and ornamental plantings.
Common Difficult Weeds
Blackberry
Manual:Effective on small infestations of less than 200 square feet.Hand pull the stems that are close to the ground and uproot the root ball.For larger, more mature stands, cut the canes with loppers or pruners and dig up the remaining root ball.Remove canes and other fragments from the site as to prevent vegetative reproduction.
Mechanical:Mowing, including the use of riding mowers and tractor-mounted mowers, can be very effective in controlling blackberries.Mulch the cuttings as much as possible – DO NOT mow sites that are wet or susceptible to compaction or erosion.If only one cutting is done per year, cut when the plant begins to flower.Make sure to return to the site the following year.If no follow-up is done, plant may re-sprout from the root crown at a greater density than before.Cultivation in agricultural areas can also be effective.
Chemical: Herbicides can be effective on blackberries, especially if combined with manual control and monitoring for surviving plants. Follow labels exactly as written and only use products appropriate and legal for the site. Herbicides should only be applied at the rates specified on the label. Products containing glyphosate are most effective when applied in late summer or early fall when canes are actively growing and after berries have formed. Glyphosate is absorbed by the growing leaves (not woody stems). However, glyphosate is ‘non-selective” and will injure any foliage that it comes in contact with, so make sure not to drip on desirable plants. Selective broadleaf herbicides with the active ingredient of triclopyr, 2, 4-D and metsulfuron work well for lawn areas as they won’t harm most grasses. When using this type of herbicide or one with glyphosate, do not cut down the treated blackberry bushes until they have died completely. This can take two weeks or more. Chemical control options may differ for private commercial and government agency users. For questions about herbicide use, contact the King County Noxious Weed Control Program
Scotch Broom
Manual: For small sites with few plants, pull or dig up plants and remove as much root as possible so the plant will not re-sprout. This method can be highly labor-intensive and to be fully effective, all mature plants need to be removed so no new seeds are produced. Pulling of medium to large plants is much easier with specially designed steel weed wrenches. Several wrenches are available to borrow from the King County Noxious Weed Control Program. Controlled burning can also be effective for removing dense broom infestations. Check local regulations for special permits, burn bans or other restrictions.
Mechanical:Cutting down mature shrubs is fairly effective but mowing young, green plants is not and will result in a dense carpet of short broom plants.For mature plants, clear thick stands or multi-branched plants with manually operated tools; chainsaws, brush cutters, axes, machetes or loppers.Cut plants near ground level where the stem is more yellow than green; much more effective when done in the dry season (July-September) but take care to avoid spreading mature seed pods to un-infested areas.Cut large, mature plants at chest height or below and cut off side branches during the dry season.Key to success is to keep seeds from forming after initial clearing.
Chemical: Follow labels exactly as written and only use products appropriate and legal for the site. Herbicides should only be applied at the rates specified on the label. Foliar herbicide application is most effective after full leaf development and before fall senescence. Basal or cut stump treatment methods are also effective. Products containing glyphosate are most effective if applied to actively growing plants. Glyphosate is absorbed by the growing leaves (not wood stems). However, glyphosate is “non-selective” and will injure any foliage that it comes in contact with, so make sure not to drip on desirable plants. Selective broadleaf herbicides with the active ingredient of triclopyr, 2, 4-D and metsulfuron work well for lawn or pasture areas as they won’t harm grasses. When using this type of herbicide or one with glyphosate, do not cut down the treated brooms until they have died completely. This can take two weeks or more. Chemical control options may differ for private, commercial and government agency users. For questions about herbicide use, contact the King County Noxious Weed Control Program.
English Ivy
English ivy is a Class C Noxious Weed of Concern in King County – control is strongly encouraged although not currently required. The County Weed Board recommends control and containment of existing populations and discourages new plantings of invasive cultivars. For control requirements in other areas, please contact the King County Noxious Weed Control Program.
- Manual: Even though it is labor intensive, the most effective control method is manual removal.Depending on the site, several other manual control options are also effective.NOTE:Remove all cut stems from soil contact.Wear gloves and protective clothing.The sap can cause a reaction in some people.
- Remove flowers or seed heads you can reach.
- Hand pull or dig out accessible plants.
- Mechanical: Mowing is effective in areas that are mowed regularly.Clippings need to be removed.
- Mulching – apply an 8 inch thick mulch layer.The plants can be cut or removed and then mulched, or a mulch layer can be directly applied on top of plants.This is not an option in steep areas.
- Chemical: Controlling established English ivy with herbicides is not very successful because of the waxy leaves.There is also a risk to non-target plants from run-off of the waxy leaves.English ivy is considered tolerant of many commonly used herbicides.Some success has been achieved by carefully selecting herbicides and focusing applications on young, actively growing plants.If herbicides are use, make sure that their use is allowed at your site.Certain herbicides can not be used in aquatic areas or their buffers.When using an herbicide follow all label directions.Contact your local noxious weed control program for control guidelines in your area.
Horsetail
Field, or common, horsetail is a primitive plant that has been around since the time of the dinosaurs. This widespread plant can be found throughout much of the Northern Hemisphere.Because it is native to Washington it is not considered a noxious weed; however, it can be a very troublesome plant due to its method of reproduction and extensive rhizome system.
The aboveground structure of the plant consists of two different shoots, including both sterile and fertile stems. The sterile stems are green with branches, and typically grow to about 20 inches tall.These stems appear in late spring and then die off in the winter. Fertile stems, which are usually pink or tan, grow between 2 and 12 inches tall.While these stems only last for about 10 days, a single cone on each stem can release 100,000 spores that germinate quickly on moist surfaces.
Rhizomes are underground root-like stems that grow horizontally.They produce roots below and send up the shoots above ground. Horsetail has a very extensive branched rhizome system that can grow to lengths of 350 feet. The wide-ranging systems commonly grow to 5 feet deep; however, they have been found as deep as 20 feet.These rhizomes can easily be moved throughout the landscape by machinery, shovels, etc.They may also easily be transplanted during any excavation or soil movement.
Once horsetail is established it is very difficult to control or eliminate. As with all problems, prevention is the best management tool. Horsetail is resistant to most herbicide and it is not recommended as a management option. Covering the plant with black plastic sheets has been found to kill the rhizomes in the upper layers of the soil; however, the deeper rhizomes are not affected and may spread once the plastic is removed. The use of mulch and/or other plants to shade out the horsetail is another approach that has been known to control the plant. Shallow cultivation will not control growth, but it but may actually spread the plant. Repeated deep cultivation, however, will help reduce the number of shoots and control the problem. For small areas, consistent pulling off the stems should help control the plant, so it is important to put forth constant effort and continually snap off the tops of the shoots as they emerge. If the horsetail is located in a lawn area, continuous mowing will keep it down and has been known to control it after a long period of time.
Your deck is a valuable asset. Its surface is constantly exposed to the elements causing the wood to crack, fade, split, cup and warp. Their horizontal orientation increases their exposure to the elements and, therefore, the necessity for maintenance. To preserve your deck’s finish, maintenance is a necessity.
Although cedar is a naturally durable wood, its properties are enhanced by an appropriate finish. Left untreated, cedar will darken and gray over time. Periodic applications of a deck sealer will help maintain your deck’s rich color and protect it for years to come. An immediate application provides a slow, steady weathering period. The movement of moisture into and out of the wood is controlled. This treatment also keeps the wood’s natural color looking new longer.
Here in the Northwest the amount of care your deck needs depends on the orientation of your deck to the sun and the amount of tree litter that your deck will be exposed to. Some decks will need more maintenance than others. Generally we would recommend evaluating and re-staining approximately every 1-2 years.
You may choose a clear sealer/stain or a colored stain. Either will offer the protection that your wood deck needs. A clear finish needs to be applied every year. If you choose a pigmented stain you may be able to wait and apply every 2 years.
1. Ensure the deck is dry prior to sealing. Test dry wood with a few drops of water. If the water soaks in immediately, the wood is ready to absorb stain. The water may not absorb readily and you may have to wait for a short period of seasoning before staining.
If it has rained we recommend waiting 3-5 days after the last rain for your wood to dry out.
2. Cleaning the deck before sealing/staining is necessary. For new decks you may simply sweep or blow off debris. For an older deck a pressure washer may be used, but be cautious, as cedar is soft and can be damaged by a strong spray. Cleaning solutions formulated specifically for decks are available as well. A wood cleaner is specially formulated to remove mildew, mold, algae and dirt from most deck surfaces. After selecting one, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use.
3. Apply the sealant or stain. Select a water-repellent preservative or semi-transparent stain to extend the life of the deck and reduce water absorption. We would then recommend staining when the temperatures are 50 degrees or higher for 48 hours, including the night temperatures. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application. Allow 24 hours for the sealant to dry prior to enjoying your deck.
Proper irrigation scheduling is a tricky skill that surprisingly few landscape professionals have mastered. By far the largest loss of plant materials on new landscape projects is the direct result of improper irrigation scheduling. You may be surprised to learn that the most common irrigation scheduling problem is not too little water, or even too much water, it is watering too frequently. Many of the common turf grass and landscape shrub diseases are made worse by, or even may be the result of, watering too frequently.
Water Needs of Your Plants:
Plant roots need a combination of both air and water to survive. Some plants, like ivy, can grow in a jar of water. Others will die if the roots are wet for longer than 24 hours. Thus, irrigation scheduling must begin with an examination of the plants to be watered. Irrigation scheduling for water-loving plants is easy, you just give them as much water as you can find or afford.
Drought tolerant plants may be found growing in all types of soils, from sand to clay. Sandy soils do not hold moisture well, and drain quickly. They are the easiest soils to grow drought tolerant plants in when irrigation is available. Clay soils hold water tightly for long periods of time, and cause the most problems with over-watering. Watering needs to be much less frequent in clay soils to allow the drying time between irrigations that these plants need.
Do Not Water if the Soil is Wet!
The first basic irrigation scheduling rule for drought-tolerant plants is never water if the soil is still wet. The old rule for landscape care was “if it doesn’t look right, water it”. This is often the worst possible thing to do. Plants wilt for any number of reasons other than needing water. Wilting for some perennials happens on hot afternoons no matter how much water they have.
Wilting in drought tolerant plants is often the first sign of too much water. (The roots die from too much water, then the plant wilts from lack of water uptake by the roots.) Wilting can also be caused by any number of other diseases or even insect damage. Some drought tolerant plants fold their leaves on hot afternoons to conserve water, which can be mistaken for wilting. So never assume a plant needs to be watered because it looks wilted. Check to see if the soil is wet first.
When You Water, Don’t be Stingy!
The other rule for irrigation scheduling is when you do water, don’t be stingy. Saturate the soil throughout. The soil should be completely saturated to a uniform depth of at least 6 inches. The primary feeder roots for most plants will be growing throughout the top 6 inches of the entire planter, not just under the plant’s foliage. These feeder roots are so small that they are not even noticeable in the soil! The plant’s lower roots are primarily to physically support the plant, although these lower roots can sometimes take up water if they need to.
Spring Start Up
We will adjust the clock for appropriate watering to get you started in the spring. Unless you have our irrigation maintenance services, it will be up to you to monitor and adjust your system depending on the weather until late fall.
WinterizationDuring the month of November you should make arrangements to have your irrigation system turned off. Lifestyle Landscapes will be happy to accommodate you. By winterizing your system you help to ensure that no pipes will freeze over the winter.
Frequent Service Problems
Problem Solution
Water usage seems to be extreme Valve stuck on, debris in valve or torn diaphragm (flush valve or replace diaphragm)
Mainline leak Shut off water and find and repair leak
Controller set improperly Check programming on controller and make adjustments
Head leaking Low head drainage, replace head with SAM style head
Loose or broken fitting Tighten or replace fitting
Bad seal on head Replace head
Zone not coming on Loose wire connection; diagnose and repair
Bad solenoid Replace and re-programming
System not coming on Reprogram start times, diagnose and reset;
Check rain sensor setting and electrical connections
When properly installed, interlocking concrete pavements have very low maintenance and provide an attractive surface for decades. Under foot and vehicular traffic, they can become exposed to dirt, stains and wear. This is common to all pavements. These steps include removing stains, cleaning and sealing. Stains on specific areas should be removed first. A cleaner should then be used to remove any efflorescence and dirt from the entire pavement. A newly cleaned pavement can be an opportune time to seal it. In order to achieve maximum results, use stain removers, cleaners, and sealers specifically for concrete pavers. These may be purchased from a manufacturer, contractor, dealer or associate member of the Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute.
Efflorescence and Its Removal
Efflorescence is a whitish powder-like deposit which can appear on concrete products. When cement hydrates (hardens after adding water), a significant amount of calcium hydroxide is formed. The calcium hydroxide is soluble in water and migrates by capillary action to the surface of the concrete. A reaction occurs between the calcium hydroxide and carbon dioxide (from the air) to form water insoluble calcium carbonate, then called efflorescence. Efflorescence does not affect the structural performance or durability of concrete pavers. The reaction which takes place is the formation of water-soluble calcium bicarbonate from calcium carbonate, carbon dioxide and water. It may appear immediately or within months following installation. Efflorescence may reach its peak in as short as 60 days after installation. It may remain for months and some of it may wear away. If installation takes place during dry period of the year, the next cycle of wet weather may sometimes be necessary for efflorescence to materialize. If there is a need to remove deposits before they wear away, best results can be obtained by using a proprietary efflorescence remover. The acid in proprietary cleaning chemicals is buffered and blended with other chemicals to provide effective cleaning without damage to the paver surface. Always refer to the paver supplier or chemical company supplying the chemicals for recommendations on proper dilution and application of chemicals for removal of efflorescence. They are generally applied in sections beginning at the top of slope of the pavement. If the area is large, a sprayer is an efficient means to apply the cleaner. The chemicals are scrubbed on the surface, then rinsed away. Results can be verified after letting the area dry for 24 hours. In most instances one application is sufficient. However, in severe instances of efflorescence, a second application may be necessary.
Protective clothing, chemical resistant rubber boots and gloves, and eye goggles should be worn when applying acid or alkalis.
Removal of Common Stains
There are proprietary cleaning products specifically designed for concrete pavers. Many have been developed through extensive laboratory and field testing to ensure cleaning effectiveness. Using manufactured cleaning chemicals for specific stains relieves the user from the uncertainty of attaining the proper mixture of chemicals. These chemicals should be used whenever possible.
If no proprietary stain removal products are available, a comprehensive source of information on stain removal is a 28-page booklet entitled Removing Stains from Concrete by William H. Kuenning. It describes chemicals, detergents or poultice (scrubbing) materials recommended for removing particular stains, and the steps to be followed in removal. This publication recognizes that some of the treatments involve hazardous chemicals and it advises specific precautions. Removing Stains from Concrete is available from the Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute (ICPI).
Once A Year Maintenance:
Replace failed lamps with the correct replacement lamps as they burn out.
Trim overgrown plant material away from fixtures to keep plant growth from blocking light output.
Straighten leaning fixtures.
Re-adjust fixtures as needed.
Reset timers as needed.
Clean powder-coated fixture with Windex or similar and wipe on a thin coat of WD-40 for weather protection.
Clean all lenses with Windex or similar.
Clean bugs and debris out of open fixtures.
Lubricate all lamps bases/sockets with Vaseline.
General Care
The myth about bamboo: Stick it in the ground and it will take over! In truth, bamboo needs routine care and attention the first 2 to 3 years until the rhizome system becomes established. After this, the bamboo can fend for itself. Bamboo will produce larger canes in height and diameter each year until it reaches its maximum potential. To encourage new growth, it is important to adequately feed and water your plants.
Watering
New plantings require regular water the first 2 to 3 years to become established. Water thoroughly once or twice a week depending on weather conditions. For a running bamboo, make sure to saturate the soils around the entire planting area to allow for rhizome expansion. For a clumping bamboo, it is only necessary to water around the base of the plant, as you would a tree or shrub. Once the bamboo is established, water 1 to 2 inches per week during the growing season (May through September). Bamboo will show signs of water stress (lack of water) by curling its leaves up in a “V” shape. Water the plant immediately if this occurs.
Do not over-water your bamboo. Make sure the planting has adequate drainage. Most bamboo will not grow well in water-logged soils. Symptoms of over-watered bamboo include yellowing foliage, rotting new canes and leaf tip die back.
Fertilizing
Good fertilization practices are one of the most important aspects in maintaining a healthy bamboo grove. We recommend the following fertilization regiment for optimal growth of your bamboo groves.
Beginning of March
Apply a quick soluble, high-nitrogen fertilizer to your bamboo groves. Look for an NPK ratio of 3:1:2. Fertilizers formulated for lawns are usually quite compatible with bamboo. Be sure to follow the directions given by the manufacturer when applying the product. Apply the quick-soluble product every 2 to 3 weeks until May.
Beginning of May Apply a slow-release fertilizer to feed the groves throughout the remainder of the year. Again, most slow-release lawn fertilizers will have the perfect nutrient formulation for your bamboo.
Thinning
Bamboo can be kept as thin or as dense as desired. Once a particular cane is cut, it will never again gain in height.
Always keep a combination of new and old canes in the grove. For a healthy grove of timber bamboo, remove old, dieing, dead, weak and leaning canes, but never remove more than 30% from the grove.
Bamboo can be “legged-up” or trimmed from the base of the cane upwards to provide more air circulation, and increase the amount of sunlight on the rhizome system. This will promote earlier shoot initiation and show off the beauty of the canes themselves.
Clear-cut / mow groundcover bamboo between the end of February and the first of March to get rid of old canes and maintain a compact appearance. The new growth to follow will be healthy, vibrant, and outstanding in appearance.
Pests and Disease
“Have a compassionate heart towards all creatures” – Ko Hung
There are very few pests and diseases which affect the temperate bamboo species. With proper care and management, most pest problems can be avoided altogether. Listed below are the more common vectors and general remedies for controlling them.
Insects
Bamboo Mites: Native to Japan, bamboo mites have no known predators indigenous to the U.S. In the event of a mite infestation, use a miticide, spraying the lower side of the foliage thoroughly. Several applications may be necessary for complete eradication.
Aphids: While aphid infestations can occur at any time on any bamboo, groves that are congested and overgrown are more likely to have issues. Sooty mold is the telltale sign of an aphid infestation resulting from the honeydew deposited by the aphids. Sooty mold is characterized by black shiny covering on the upper surface of the bamboo leaf. Most broad spectrum insecticides work well on aphid out-breaks.
Slugs and Snails: Slugs and snails feed on the tender new shoots of the bamboo, making small holes in the new canes. As these canes harden, the holes often become larger, destabilizing the strength of the cane as a whole. Particularly prone are thin-walled species. Apply slug bait around the groves in late winter and again in the spring to discourage activity.
Mammals
Livestock such as chickens, goats, cattle, and horses can become fond of bamboo as fodder. High in protein, nutritious and delicious, the outcome of this type of foraging may not be desirable. Planting outside the reach of livestock is the prudent way to avoid the issue. Planting within an animal’s foraging area is a personal choice.
Rabbits Eating the new shoots and young leaves of bamboo, rabbits can be a nuisance. Most damage is done to new planting. Try fencing in the plants when they are small to keep the rabbits away.
Voles are tiny meadow mice with big teeth that love to feed on bamboo shoots and rhizomes. Keeping the lower branches trimmed on the bamboo and the ground clean will help take away the vole’s natural cover and make them more susceptible to predators. If you suspect that you have a vole infestation keep all leaf litter and mulch away from the affected bamboo. Vole runs are characterized by one-inch entry and exit tunnels and shallow subterranean runs. If you have canes falling over, try to diagnose the problems with other bamboos in your planting by feeling around the plant to reveal small tunnels and runs. Tracking powders can be effective for treating voles.
*Information provided by http://www.booshootgardens.com/*
Key Principles: How big is the root ball? You aren’t just watering the first couple inches of soil. Your goal is to slowly water the soil/mulch over the root ball so that the water does not run-off, and slowly percolates down into the soil, soaking that entire root zone. An average tree that we install has a root ball of 20″-30″ deep. Understand now why standing there with a hose for a few minutes doesn’t work?
How to Get the Job Done: The easiest and cheapest way to water a tree is to lay a hose at the base of the trunk, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If you are getting significant run off, turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for an hour on 3 positions around the trunk. If that doesn’t seem like the method for you, you can use soaker hoses. These foam hoses connect to the end of a standard garden hose and drip water out their sides. Radiate the hose around the base of your trees so that they are spiraling over the whole root ball. Be careful not to connect too many soaker hoses together or the ones on the end won’t be getting enough water pressure. Usually after 100′ of hose you’ll start losing pressure. You won’t want the hose turned on more than 1/4 or 1/2 of the way.
Another effective tree watering method is using irrigation bags or containers around the base of the plants. These reservoirs fill up quickly with 10+ gallons of water and have small holes on the bottom that will slowly drip to water the trees.
Key Principles: The same principles that apply for a tree apply for shrubs, but with a lesser scale. Shrubs come in a variety of sizes of containers and root balls. Understand your goal is to get that whole root ball moist. How big is the root ball? You aren’t just watering the first couple inches of soil. Your goal is to slowly water the soil/mulch over the root ball so that the water does not run-off, and slowly percolates down into the soil, soaking that entire root zone. An average shrub that we install has a root ball of 12″-20″ deep.
How to Get the Job Done: The easiest and cheapest way to water shrubs is to lay a hose at the base of the plant, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If there is significant run-off, you need to turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for about 10-20 minutes at 2-3 positions around the trunk. If that doesn’t seem like the method for you, you can use soaker hoses. Radiate the hose around the base of your shrubs so that they are spiraling around the root ball. Be careful not to connect too many soaker hoses together or the ones on the end won’t be getting enough water pressure. Usually after 100′ of hose you’ll start losing pressure. You won’t want the hose turned on more than 1/4 or 1/2 of the way.
Key Principles: Most of these plants will only have roots in the first 3″-8″ of soil after they are planted. You won’t have to water long in each location, but the top few inches of soil and mulch may dry out quickly, depending on conditions. Whereas when you water a tree, the moisture is still down in the majority of the root system even if the top few inches dry out, with small plants, you may need to water more frequently if it is hot and dry.
How to Get the Job Done: You can use a watering wand (similar to a shower head) on the end of your hose and water each plant individually for 15-20 seconds, then give it about a 20 second break (you can move onto the next plant) and then come back and repeat that 15-20 second watering again for that small plant. If you have large areas of annuals or ground cover you may want to consider using an overhead sprinkler. Just be sure you aren’t watering within 3-4 hours from dusk, so the plant leaves don’t remain wet all night and promote fungal diseases. If you are using an overhead sprinkler, you’ll need to run your sprinklers a couple times a day for about 20 minutes each time.
Don’t wait for the plants to tell you with wilting and leaves dropping off. Then you’ll just be watering to keep the plant’s roots alive so it may possible come back later. Inspect the soil. Dig around with your hands, soil probe, garden trowel, or shovel. You’ll be able to tell quickly how far down you are actually watering.
We wish you the best of luck! If you take the time and commit to watering correctly, you’ll get the most out of your investment and have beautiful, healthy plants.
If you’re considering a landscape planting project we would love to help. Please don’t hesitate to contact Lifestyle Landscapes.
First 2 Days
New sod should be thoroughly watered twice each day. Water must be applied long enough to saturate the soil layer under the sod. A corner of a sod section may be lifted to check the extent of water penetration. If your landscape is installed during dormancy (about October 15th to March 15th) hand watering is generally not needed.
First 21 Days
Continue watering new sod for the first three weeks in the same manner used for the first two days. New sod also requires a light application of organic fertilizer (16-16-16) during the first month.
Do Not walk or drive equipment on new sod for at least 21-30 days following planting.
Sod should be mowed approximately 3 -4 weeks after installation, or when the sod grows to 3.5” tall. Mower blades must be very sharp and the mower cutting height should be set to 2.5”. For the first mow, run your lawn mower perpendicular to the direction of the sod. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade height during any one mowing.
Sod, Lawn Seed, or Hydroseed After 21Days
After the first 21 days, watering should be reduced to once or twice daily for the next 21 days. Moisture levels should be checked daily to assure watering frequency is correct.
New lawns require a second light application of organic fertilizer (16-16-16) 4-6 weeks following the first application of fertilizer.
Walking or operating equipment on sod should be minimized until the soil becomes firm. Depending on soil and weather conditions, this may take between 2 and 12 months.
Established lawns (2 years old or older) need 1” of water per week. This is normally accomplished in our region naturally from November 15th through March 15th. Lawn roots are relatively shallow but you want to promote deep rooting. Lawns also dry out quickly, so it is best for an established lawn to be sprinkled 3 times a week. Set your irrigation clocks to make sure your lawn is receiving 1” of water per week.
Established lawns need fertilizer. Five times per year is best. To remember when to fertilize do so on the holidays: Starting at Easter, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and finally Thanksgiving.
Although TimberTech products are low-maintenance, TimberTech recommends periodic cleaning to help maintain the beauty of the product. For best results a cleaner like eco-friendly Corte Clean is recommended. Follow the manufacturers’ application instructions.
A power washer can be used when cleaning TimberTech products. The recommended maximum pressure is 1500 psi for TimberTech decks. A fan tip nozzle should be used along with the proper cleaning product. Spray in the direction of the brush/grain pattern to avoid damaging the product. Use caution not to damage the material and always take the proper safety precautions when operating a power washer.
To remove product identification printing from the side or bottom of a TimberTech deck plank use Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
TimberTech does not recommend the use of rubber or vinyl products (welcome mats, planters, etc.) on XLM deck planks. A reaction can occur that causes discoloration of the decking under the rubber/vinyl product. This is a common caution for vinyl decking products.
Trex decking and railing products are made from a unique combination of reclaimed wood and plastic, giving you the best qualities of both materials. The plastic shields the wood from moisture and insect damage, (Trex decking has been tested and found to be highly resistant to damage from termites, carpenter ants and marine borers) so there’s no rotting or splintering. The wood protects the plastic from UV damage and gives your deck a solid, natural feel. You can expect Trex to go through a natural fading process, however, painting, sealing and staining are not needed to protect your deck.
Periodic cleaning of your deck, even if it appears clean, is the most important aspect of Trex maintenance. It is necessary to prevent the build-up of pollen/debris that can cause mold. Cleaning your deck after installation to remove initial dirt and debris is also a good idea. Soap, hot water, and a broom are all that are needed for a basic cleaning. For stains caused by mold, mildew, berries and leaves, conventional deck washes containing sodium hypochlorite work well. For rust stains, ground-in dirt and grime, use cleaners containing phosphoric acid. For grease and oil stains, we recommend that you scrub with a detergent containing a degreasing agent as soon as the stain occurs. Cleaning out your expansion gaps with a flat tool should be done along with any periodic cleaning.
Trex decking readily accepts paint or stain, although, as mentioned, neither is required for protection. In general, paints or stains which adhere well to wood will adhere as well or better to Trex decking. Quality latex paints (water based) or solid color stains are recommended. Stain and paint applications should be applied according to the manufacturers instructions after the Trex decking fading process is complete.
Your deck is a valuable asset to your home. Decks are considered a high-maintenance surface due to the horizontal exposure they receive, however, with your selection of Trex, your deck will prove to be much lower maintenance than the traditional cedar deck.
Here in the Northwest the amount of care your deck needs depends on the orientation of your deck to the sun and the amount of tree litter that your deck will be exposed to. So some decks will need more maintenance than others.
Routine Maintenance For All Ponds
You should clean the filters at least once a week if the water feature is subject to a lot of leaves and needles falling from trees, especially during the fall and during rainy or windy periods. The filters may have to be cleaned a number of times when the pond is being cleaned or string algae is being removed.
To avoid floating debris from getting into the pumping chamber, the filters should not be removed when the water level in the Filtrific is above the top of the filter baskets. Once the water is below the top of the filters remove the filters and empty the debris. Remove the back screen first, clean it, then remove the front screen and replace it with the cleaned back screen. Use a hose if necessary.
Algae Control and Healthy Ponds
Probably the most vexing problem encountered by pond owners is the presence of algae. Algae growth is spurred by excessive organic materials, warm stagnant water and a lot of sunlight. These conditions exist here in the Northwest from about April to October.
The single most important task of the pond owner is keeping the pond free of unwanted organic materials. Use a net to scoop out leaves and debris. Trim dead foliage off pond plants rather than allowing it to decompose in the water.
Realize that the smaller the pond the more you will have to treat it like an aquarium. This is due to the fact that ponds which are smaller or shallower tend to heat up faster and therefore algae will grow more rapidly. Keep your pond water pH close to neutral. To avoid stagnant water, add supplemental oxygen. This can be done with the addition of a waterfall, a stream, or a fountain. High levels of oxygen promote natural biological activity. Shady ponds can be an exception: they are more likely to reach a natural balance without added water movement. Stagnant water is also an invitation to mosquitoes.
Don’t change your water unnecessarily. Each time new water is added to a pond, whether it comes from a well or a city water supply, it brings along free floating nutrients. Phosphate levels frequently are very high. De-chlorinate new water you add. Bacterial organisms are a necessary component of healthy ponds. In a new pond or in one that is out of balance, we always suggest that you add beneficial bacteria to boost normally developing colonies. Never scrub your pond clean. The natural green velvet coating that develops on the sides and bottom of the pond is the home of your beneficial organisms.
If your pond does develop an algae outbreak, remove as much of the algae as possible and clear out the filter, and then apply necessary chemicals. (See generalized schedule and list of our recommendations) Once the chemicals have killed the algae, remove the dead material. Continue to maintain with more chemicals and filtration.
Recommends Algae Control Chemicals
E.P.A. Registered Algaecides
AlgaeFix — AlgaeFix is an effective, E.P.A. registered selective algae-control product that solves algae problems. AlgaeFix can be used in ponds with live plnats. Kills existing algae and controls additional algae blooms. Requires three treatments, three days apart. Use this on an as need basis.
Algae Destroyer Tablets — Contains one of the most effective algaecides available. (Recommended for ponds without plants.)
Algae Destroyer Liquid — Contains one of the most effective algaecides available. (Recommended for ponds without plants.
Algae Blocker — Controls the growth of submerged algae and aquatic weeds by coloring the water blue and blocking the sunlight required for their survival. For use in ornamental garden ponds, closed system ponds and fountains containing fish.
Beneficial Bacteria Products
Ecofix — By digesting sludge and reducing dissolved organics. Ecofix reduces organic pollution, increases the concentration of dissolved oxygen in the water and creates and maintains a healthy ecosystem in your pond.
Bio-Booster — Biofilter Booster is a highly concentrated solution of beneficial bacteria that start up and maintain the biological filter in water gardens and koi ponds.
Water Conditioning Products
Stress Coat — A water conditioner that replaces the natural mucous slime coating on the skin of pond fish when it has been damaged by handling, netting or other forms of stress. Instantly removes chlorine and breaks the chloramines bond. Contains Aloe Vera to help wounds & roen fins. Use whenever setting up a pond, adding fish, or changing water.
Chlorine and Heavy Metal Neutralizer — Instantly neutralizes chlorine, copper, lead and zinc, as well as other heavy metals found in tap and well water, all of which may be toxic to fish and plants. Instantly makes tap and well water safe for pond life.
Acue-Clear — Quickly clears cloudy pond water by causing tiny suspended particles of dirt and debris to clump together, forming larger particles that fall to the bottom of the pond and are siphoned out or removed by the pond filter.
Ammo-Lock 2 — Instantly detoxifies ammonia from fish waste, tap water, uneaten fish food, decomposing plants and algae. Prepares tap water for plants and fish. Removes chlorine and chloramines from tap and well water.
Plant Products
Aquatic Plant Stimulant — A concentrated solution containing six of the most important trace elements essential for stimulating plant growth. Benefits bog and marginal plants. Will not stimulate algae blooms.
Aquatic Plant Food Tablets — Continuous-release tablet formula containing essential nutrients and trace elements for non-stop blooming of hardy and tropical aquatic plants. Keeps water lilies blooming all season long. Use monthly in season, 1 per gallon of soil.
Herbal Aphid Control — Herbal Aphid Control is an aphid insecticide formulated with mint oil and thyme. Kills aphids on contact. Can be used in ponds that contain fish. Leaves no residue in water. E.P.A approved.
Water Test Kits
Master Liquid Test Kit — Pond Care Master Test Kit is used for testing tap and pond water, pH, ammonia, nitrite, and salt levels.
Liquid pH Test Kit — A liquid test kit that instantly and accurately measures the wide pH ranges encountered in pond water. Tests levels from 5.0 to 9.0
Liquid Nitrite Test Kit — A liquid test kit for accurately determining the concentration of nitrite, a toxic chemical produced when nitrifying bacteria break down the ammonia in pond water. Reads nitrite levels from 0 ppm to 5 ppm.
Liquid Ammonia Test Kit — A kit for determining the level of ammonia, a toxic chemical constantly produced in the pond from fish waste, uneaten fish food, and decaying plants and dead algae.
Liquid Salt Level Test Kit — Determine the proper amount of pond salt to be added to the pond in order to reduce fish stress, improve gill function, protect fish against nitrite toxicity and protect aquatic plants that are sensitive to pond salt.
